Saturday, June 30, 2012

Installing Tile Drainage

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Our biggest and smallest tractor working side by side.
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Mammoth Master Magic

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PLEASE DO NOT COPY MY DESIGNS AND SELL FOR A PROFIT. This is the 28 tile (2x14) Mammoth Master Magic. It has a solution similar to the normal master magic.
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Homes for Sale - 214 Mule Train Trl - San Tan Valley, AZ 85143

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We had a good read. For the benefit of yourself. Be sure to read to the end. I want you to get good knowledge from Arizona Tile . Beautiful Model perfect home with lovely hardwood floors and tile ready for move in! This is an amazing floorplan with formal living and dining and separate family room open to kitchen area and breakfast bar.The over-sized master suite features a sitting area and double sink vanity, walk in closet & glass enclosed tub/shower. The backyard features a sumptuous living of elegance with a private pool and an inground spa. A huge extended patio! This is everyone's dream 3 car garage with built in cabinets and floored storage in attic. Johnson Ranch is an award winning community with 3 community pools, children's playgrounds, picnic pavillion, basketball, soccer fields, volleyball court, and an 18 hole pay to play golf course, free 9 hole golf course and a catch a release lak
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How to Make Painted Tiles, Plates and Dinnerware with Ceramic Paint Pens

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Learn how to make painted tiles and plates with ceramic paint pens. Even if you can't draw freehand, you can use the nifty trick in this video to easily trace any image onto your tile or plate. These are fun to make for yourself and make great gifts because you can customize the designs in many ways. A Craftster Quickies video by Craftster.org.
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Why Not Tile a Marble Bathroom?

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Few materials can correlate with the attractiveness and elegance of marble. This ornate stone can be used all over your home to originate a sophisticated look. However, many citizen hesitate to use marble tiling and countertops in their bathrooms.

Tile Patterns

Cleaning and caring for marble bathrooms isn't as tedious as you may think. In this article, we'll flush out the truth about cleaning bathrooms made of this stone and how you can use it to growth the value of your home.

Marble tiling is the perfect option for a formal scholar bath floor and wall. Since this is a natural product taken from the earth, there is very limited operate in veining and color variation. There are countless designs, colors, outside textures, tile patterns, and edge details available.

There are also more affordable faux marble tiles and countertops available as well. The stone is available in a variety of color variations such as whites, black, yellows, reds, creamy neutrals, subtle earth tones, greens, tawny browns, and even scarlet reds, and will be whether clouded or veined. The colors of marble can be combined with dissimilar types of accents, borders and patterns to produce a dramatic effect to your scholar suite bath.

The cost to remodel bathroom tiles and countertops with marble is significant, so it's best to crusade out reputable bathroom contractors to do the installation. Marble is naturally porous, so it's principal that the proper sealants are used to forestall damage.

Countertops wish tile with greater vigor and stronger glazes to withstand moisture and staining. While marble is very durable, most natural stone products are prone to cracking, so it's not a good idea to use marbles in bathrooms that have a lot of traffic or ones commonly used by children.

Cleaning marble bathrooms is surprisingly easy but it does wish a regular disposition to keep the stone looking rich. Some experts recommend using plain water, but most recommend gently wiping surfaces with a mild cleaning solution.

This should be followed with a clear water rinse to avoid streaks or soapy build-up. Never use harsh chemicals, polisher cleaners or vinegar on a marble surface. Vinegar chemically reacts with the calcium carbonate in the stone, strips the shine, and permanently etches the surface.

The finest spas in the world use marble to originate a luxurious environment. You can originate a similar taste in your own home. Marble bathrooms are a great home increasing venture and you get great value for your money.

It's attractiveness is timeless, the stone is very resilient, and it is surprisingly easy to maintain. There as a matter of fact is no infer to fear using marble in your bathroom at home. It will originate a space that will have you feeling like you're living in the lap of luxury.

Why Not Tile a Marble Bathroom?

Friday, June 29, 2012

Ceramic Tile Underlayments - The Basics

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Ceramic tile material is rigid and relatively brittle, so a sturdy base is the most valuable part of installing this type of tile. Unless you want to see cracked tiles, loose tiles, or loose grout, you need to opt the allowable underlayment. Underlayment being what the construction trade calls the layer that goes in the middle of your wood subfloor and your tiles.

You have some alternate ways to perform the strong underlayment required for ceramic tile installation.

Tile

Plywood- just a singular layer of plywood isn't rigid adequate to stop floor deflection. It needs to be covered over with an supplementary layer of exterior-grade plywood to perform a total thickness of at least 1 1/8 inch. You can either (A)- Cover the plywood with a cement backer board (more on these below) or (B) Cover the existing plywood with a second layer of face grade plywood. Under either of these, a thin-set mortar is applied to eliminate air gaps. Additionally, in bathrooms, it's recommended to lay a "shower pan" over your wood subfloor. This refers to thin rubberized materials that protect the tile from floor expansion and contraction due to moisture, climatic characteristic and humidity.

Ceramic Tile Underlayments - The Basics

Cement Backer Board - These are prefabricated, lightweight concrete sheets used to cover wood subfloors. It has a dense Portland concrete core and fiberglass surfaces both sides and is able to withstand prolonged exposure to moisture. Brand names comprise Durock, Utilicrete, Wonderboard and Glascrete. Joints of the backer board sheets should be staggered such that they don't fall directly over the wood subfloor joints.

Mortar Bed- Mud beds, or mortar beds, are used by pro tile contractors mostly. They're composed of a layer of thick roofing felt, then wire mesh, followed by a layer of mortar. The fancy it is used mostly by the specialists is that it takes a high level of skill and institution to ensure the mortar bed produces a sufficiently level surface. The other fancy is that it is the best foundation possible for a ceramic tile floor. Okay, but why? Because the mortar bed has a built-in reinforcement against floor deflections in the form of the wire mesh. Translation- less cracked tiles and loose grout, and longer-life flooring.

Concrete Slab-
You can lay your ceramic tile directly on concrete slab, but all cracks and holes need to be refurbished prior before the facility of a tile when it's directly bonded to the concrete. Some concrete slab has been coated with curing combination to help the slab set without cracks. This combination should be removed before tile facility to ensure a long-lasting mortar bond, since the combination helps the concrete reserve moisture and in some cases affects adhesiveness. It is also prominent that the slab be as level as possible, especially with the larger tile sizes in use today. Cleaning the concrete completely of debris and dust will also lead to a higher quality installation. In short, establishment of the face is key.

One other possibility is laying the tile over existing flooring. There are a few things to consider. Is your existing floor solid, flat and in good shape? Is it stuck well adequate to the subfloor under it to supply support? Good. Is the existing floor linoleum or vinyl? Not so good. You need to strip it out or put a good subflooring on top of it. (And watch out for older vinyl flooring, which may comprise asbestos fibers. You don't want to strip this stuff out yourself. Instead, either cover it up with some plywood subfloor or have a undertaker of a package deal take off it. If you aren't sure if your flooring has asbestos, call in a trained asbestos inspector.) If you have ceramic tile on the floor you can lay newer tile on top of it as long as it's face is level and not too smooth. You might need to sand the face to let your bonding have a better chance.

In conclusion, a minuscule planning and opinion will go a long way toward development your tile facility scheme a long-lasting increasing to your home, so take the time before you go in with "both guns blazing".

Ceramic Tile Underlayments - The Basics

Tucson Apartments Orange Tree Village Apartment Rentals in Arizona

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www.apartmentguide.com Tucson Apartments Orange Tree Village Apartment Rentals in Arizona IF YOU'RE ON YOUR WAY UP, WE HAVE THE PERFECT PLACE TO SETTLE DOWN. Orange Tree Village was designed to appeal to those who demand ultimate comfort, convenience and style in their home. Our townhome apartments have a relaxed, wide open feeling with tile roofs and large window areas. Other features include built-in wet bars and fireplaces, perfect for entertaining. Visit us today!
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9104 W. Elwood St., Tolleson, AZ 85353

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Mold - What Causes It And How To Get Rid Of It

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Mold - What Causes It And How To Get Rid Of It

Mold. And no, we're not talking about the kind found on 40 year old bread. We're talking about the kind of mold found in your bathroom on the tub tiles and a amount of other places you'd never even suspect. In this report we're going to go over the causes of mold and how to get rid of it.

Mold - What Causes It And How To Get Rid Of It

Mold is truly always present in the air and all it needs to trigger it off is a dinky moisture and a food source. Most surfaces include all the nutrients that mold will need for it to grow and any dirt on that outside only provides further fuel for the fire.

Mold is pretty easy to spot even if you can't see it, which is ordinarily white or can even be black. Mold can always be smelled and the odor is rather musty and not at all pleasant. It grows on paper, drywall, wood, paint and wallpaper and many other surfaces that include sufficient amounts of moisture.

Okay, so if mold is so prevalent just how do we get rid of it or if inherent keep it from forming?

The first step in reducing mold (you'll never completely kill it) is to keep things clean. A 1 part to 4 part clarification of chlorine bleach and water will kill mold. If you add a detergent to that clarification you will also remove dust and dirt. You have to be very just when disturbing mold spores because they can cause respiratory problems, especially if you are allergic to mold, have asthma or other breathing problems.

The next thing to do is to cut humidity. In a climate where you have to heat the air in the winter time, this can be a real challenge. Warm air holds much more moisture than cold air. Air conditioning systems can remove the moisture and circulate cool dry air back into the room. Of course if you live in a hot dry climate like Arizona, this isn't that much of a problem. Air movement, through the use of a fan, is an additional one great way of reducing the moisture in the air. Just from cooking and bathing alone you can add as much as 3 gallons of water a day to your home unless you have sufficient circulation.

Corners are a common place for mold to grow. ordinarily because of improper insulation the interior wall can come to be colder than the air that is inside the room and this causes moisture to form on the surface. The underside of windows is an additional one common location. Humid air will dehydrate on cold windows which will form frost and then go through a cycle by which the moisture will ice and defrost. This will cause water to drip down underneath the window which is what causes the mold to form and grow and your wall to start rotting.

By following the above procedures, retention your home cool and dry and cleaning often especially after a bath or shower, you can help prevent mold from taking over your house.

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Mexican Tile Restoration Phoenix Arizona | Tilerestoration.com | California Tile Cleaning

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Thursday, June 28, 2012

19829 West Lower Buckeye Road, Buckeye, Arizona 85326

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Marek Grechuta - Ważne są tylko te dni których jeszcze nie znamy

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TEKST PIOSENKI: Tyle było dni do utraty sił Do utraty tchu tyle było chwil Gdy żałujesz tych, z których nie masz nic Jedno warto znać, jedno tylko wiedz, że Ważne są tylko te dni, których jeszcze nie znamy Ważnych jest kilka tych chwil, tych na które czekamy x2 Pewien znany ktoś, kto miał dom i sad Zgubił nagle sens iw złe kręgi wpadł Choć majątek prysł, on nie stoczył się Wytłumaczyć umiał sobie wtedy właśnie że, Ważne są tylko te dni, których jeszcze nie znamy Ważnych jest kilka tych chwil, tych na które czekamy x2 Jak rozpoznać ludzi, których już nie znamy? Jak pozbierać myśli, z tych nieposkładanych? Jak oddzielić nagle serce od rozumu? Jak usłyszeć siebie pośród śpiewu tłumu? Jak rozpoznać ludzi, których już nie znamy? Jak pozbierać myśli, z tych nieposkładanych? Jak odnaleźć nagle radość i nadzieję? Odpowiedzi szukaj, czasu jest tak wiele... Ważne są tylko te dni, których jeszcze nie znamy Ważnych jest kilka tych chwil,tych na które czekamy .x2 nanananananananananana x4
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Floor Tile Layout - Part 1 - Floor Tile Alignment

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Before you lay floor tiles, you first need to organize a tile pattern and layout prior to setting them for good in mortar. The initial step is to mark out and snap your lines, and figure out which direction is best for your floor tile layout. Distributed by Tubemogul.
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Outback Red: Marrakech Moments

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Outback Red is an explorer who is always discovering and evolving. On her travels, she seeks out new experiences, new cultures and new styles to reflect the world around her. Right now, she is in the exotic city of Marrakech, Morocco, where tile patterns and exotic dyeing techniques invite vivid, geometric prints. Our new collection is all about the rich colors, bold prints and natural jewelry and accessories inspired by her visit to the Marrakech marketplace. See Elliot's tips on how to pull off Outback Red's look with pattern mixing: on.fb.me .
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Tile Work

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Tile work is something many citizen think is difficult to do. It surely isn't that hard as long as you have the right tools for the job and are properly prepared. You can do upgrades to your home by yourself and they aren't that difficult to complete.

Tile Patterns

Some things you will need to complete your own tile work are grout, a wet sponge, strong craft glue, spoon to mix the combination and of procedure your tile. Make sure that you have measured the place where you will be doing the tiling and make sure you have adequate tiling. If you have patterns, make sure that you have already arranged how the patterns will be displayed once you lay the tile. There is no turning back once you start laying your tile work.

Once you mix your grout as the manufacture instructs you must start to apply it. The usual time span for curing is between 24 to 72 hours. The manufacture will have the exact time listed in the instructions. Do small sections at a time, maybe 2 to 3 square feet.

Don't forget to use a wet leech to wipe the edges. Doing the work in a small section allows you to wipe way excess grout and glue before it starts to cure. This will give a neater final appearance to your work.

Laying tile for a homeowner isn't that difficult at all. A itsybitsy patience and the right tools and the job should be a piece of cake for any homeowner finding to make improvements.

Tile Work

Phoenix AZ Home for Sale, 3 Bedroom, 3 Car Garage, Pool

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We had a good read. For the benefit of yourself. Be sure to read to the end. I want you to get good knowledge from Arizona Tile Granite. Single story Phoenix Arizona 3 bedroom home for sale. Nearly new, completely finished home with private pool and landscaping front and back, quick move in welcome. Private corner lot with front bistro seating and custom pavers. Ceramic tile and premium wood floors throughout. Full wall maple kitchen and laundry cabinets, granite counter-tops with matching full height back splash, upgraded stainless appliances. 4 ft extended garage with cabinets, epoxy floor. Shutter window coverings. EZ access to Fireside at Desert Ridge Community Center with heated pool. Near Wildfire Golf Club at Desert Ridge, Mayo Clinic Hospital, Desert Ridge Marketplace, Rt 101 & Rt 51. 30 minute drive to Phoenix Skyharbor International Airport. NOT a short sale. tour.previsite.com
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Wednesday, June 27, 2012

5 Tile Floor Tips For Your Basement

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Refinishing or refurbishing your basement is a big job that can be high-priced and challenging. But gaining the added living space is often primary sufficient to warrant the effort. One of the most important parts of redoing your basement is the floor. Whether you are working with a concrete or wooden floor, you may want to consider other type of flooring that will prove more durable and easy to clean. When you are giving opinion to which selection will work best for your home, consider the following data with respect to a file floor for your basement.

Tile Patterns

1. A tile floor is relatively cheap compared to other types of flooring. Depending on the grade and style you buy, you might be able to get the peel-and-stick brand that you can lay down yourself instead of hiring it done. This will suit not only your wallet but your schedule, since it can be done in stages, as you have the time, and possibly with the help of a friend or house member. Of course, you can get the more high-priced styles, and pay more, for a richer or more polished look, depending on your plans for the basement's use.

2. Tile is replaceable, so if one or more pieces should get stained, chipped, or torn, you can take them up and lay down new ones at your convenience. Instead of waiting for a assistance call from person who only works weekends for double-time pay, you can do it yourself in time for the next party or house get-together.

3. Tile flooring is easy to clean. You don't have to worry as much about spilled beverages, pet accidents, or muddy shoes tracking through. Just fill a bucket with hot water and mild detergent, or anyone the tile manufacturer's directions suggest, and mop up dirt, dust, and debris in a few minutes' time.

4. Tile is surely changed. If you get tired of the design and want to turn it, or resolve to put down rug when you get an unexpected monetary windfall, you can make the switch fairly fast and easily. Some habitancy resolve to lay rug on top of the tile, which makes it easier than taking up the old and putting down the new floor covering.

5. Tile patterns are versatile. You can pick a basic monotone color to blend in with neutral surroundings. Or buy a contemporary design to turn your basement into a house recreation room. A more sedate, intricate pattern provides a nice floor outside for a room that will come to be your den or a spare bedroom. Throw down a few accent rugs (the non-skid variety) and enjoy the brand new look.

Floor tile can take a pretty rough beating from shoe scuffs, tool scrapes, and running back and forth, if you have kids. With many interesting patterns to pick from, you can dress up your basement in anyone décor you like, and then let the games begin!

5 Tile Floor Tips For Your Basement

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ornamental Rocks and ornamental Stone - Landscaping

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ornamental Rocks and ornamental Stone - Landscaping

It's time to break out of the daily landscaping design. What does your lawn consist of? Lots of green grass - that takes a lot of time to mow and a lot of water to look healthy, trees and shrubs. Possibly some flowerbeds flanking the house itself.

ornamental Rocks and ornamental Stone - Landscaping

But there's so much more you can do with your landscaping, if you just conclude to do things a bit differently.

In desert locations, of course, like Arizona and Mexico, why bother to try to force grass to grow at all? Why not plainly cover your yard with attractive, attractive rock and stone, with a few shrubs. Or as the joke has it, "I'm retired, I've mowed my last lawn!" The intuit is straightforward - you may think water is a renewable reserved supply - but it doesn't renew as fast as mankind is entertaining it. In desert states where water comes from below ground aquifers, the level of this fresh-water source is lowering every year, and rainwater cannot replenish that level fast enough.

Even if you don't live in a desert climate, there's no intuit why you can't make a rock organery - either large or small - in part of your yard. Such a organery will cut down on the time needed to mow your lawn, there'll be no need to spread pesticides around, and it will be a quiet and restful place around which to sit.

Like any other landscaping element, a rock organery does have to be planned carefully. Rock doesn't suck up water - so any rain run-off will go straight into your lawn and does need to be carefully drained off. Don't put your rock organery over electrical or phone lines, either.

You may think that a rock organery is equivalent to a Japanese garden, but that isn't necessarily the case. The Japanese organery combines three elements: stone which represents mountains or islands, water - representing purity, and plants. A Zen organery is what most population think of when they hear the term Japanese organery - a stretch of white sand with black rocks located strategically about, and one meditates by raking the sand smooth.

There are two ways to setup a rock garden...one would be to make the rock look like a natural outcropping of bedrock...used to cut off an inconvenient slope. The more usual construct is to pile up the stones - both large and small - in harmonious groupings...and if you plainly must have greenery, leave small gaps in the middle of the rocks into which the plants may be placed.

Surf the web to get ideas for how to construct your rock garden, and speculation far and wide, into sites from Japan and India as well as the United States. You'll find charm everywhere.

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Marble Vs Granite Countertops - Which is Better?

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Marble Vs Granite Countertops - Which is Better?

Many citizen want to know if marble or granite is good for countertops in their kitchens and bathrooms. After all, both are beautiful materials, both lend beauty and elegance to any home, and both are ready in many varieties to suit any preference.

Marble Vs Granite Countertops - Which is Better?

On the other hand, there are a few differences in the middle of these two stones that you should seriously consider before selecting in the middle of them. Rather than development this decision for you, why don't we let the facts speak for themselves.

The Pros and Cons of Marble

First of all, Marble is a metamorphic rock. Its basic ingredient can be found anywhere from limestone to baking soda, from

calcium carbonate to lime (white wash). The basic ingredient goes by many other names depending on its application and its form. Limestone, a sedimentary form of calcium, which is found naturally in the earth, undergoes intense heat and pressure within the earth to be formed into what we know as marble.

This rock can also be exposed to heat and grist to come to be a filler ingredient for medications, writing paper, plaster of

Paris, lime (white wash), and cement hardener. This means that marble, although beautiful and durable, is porous and very positively destroyed by any type of acid, heat, or water. Even with a seal coating applied religiously every year, no types of chemicals may be used to wash the countertops made from it. It cannot take much abuse from water, acids such as lemon or orange juice, or high heat from pans. These will all destroy the seal coating and the marble beneath.

Since marble is so porous, it is also positively stained. One particular scratch can allow liquids or even oxidation from the air to

leak under the seal coating and stain the marble. This doesn't mean that it should not be used. Marble is ideal for use in low traffic areas or for sculpting spectacular, art out of. But for the high traffic use of a kitchen countertop, a floor, or a bathroom countertop, marble just means high maintenance.

The Pros and Cons of Granite

Granite is also a metamorphic rock. It is a composite of quartz, silicon, feldspar, mica, and several other minerals. It too

is formed under high pressure and heat. It is also just as beautiful. It is not as porous as marble and is defiant to chemicals and acids. The proximity of quartz in granite provides the granite with a durableness and hardness unlike that of soft marble.

Granite is more stain defiant and wear defiant than marble. While it is not perfect, granite holds up far good in high traffic uses such as counter tops and flooring. With a allowable seal coating on granite and with allowable care, granite will last for many years without scratching, staining, chipping, or wearing away. If properly cared for, granite may not need to be resealed every year.

Granite can also be quarried locally. This means that, unlike marble, granite will not have to be shipped from South America or Europe. Granite can be quarried in Arizona, New Mexico, and some northern states. Granite is also easier to ship. Even if the granite you pick comes from South Africa, China, Asia, or Europe, there is more granite available. This means it's easier to derive and less costly to use.

Ultimately It's Up To You

Whether you select granite or marble is up to you. When asked which one is good for the high traffic use of countertops, the riposte should be clear, granite will naturally hold up better. When properly cared for under general conditions, granite is easier to care for and is defiant to staining, chemicals, heat, and fracturing. Granite is ready in more colors and patterns and can be institution ordered for less than marble.

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Amadou & Mariam- Je Pense A Toi (Henrik Schwarz Remix)

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Tuesday, June 26, 2012

6517 Hazelton Tempe, AZ Hory and Melissa 602.427.7181

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Photoshop Tutorial: Create Seamlessly Tiling Patterns with Complex Images -HD-

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How to Lay Tile on Stairs

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Installing tile flooring on stairs is not much distinct than installing tiles on a level subfloor. So long as the staircase is strong adequate to maintain the weight of the tiles, you should be able to install them without a hitch (you may need a professional to help make this determination). Stairs made out of concrete are best for tile factory as they are ordinarily strong adequate to maintain the weight of a range of tile types.

Possible tile types you could install on stairs:

Tile

Ceramic Tile (glazed or unglazed) Marble Tile Encaustic Tile porcelain Tile Terrazzo Tile Glass Tile Granite Tile

How to Lay Tile on Stairs

Wooden staircases are not a good fit for tile installation. Wood has a tendency to shift over time, especially under vibrations. This could loosen and dislodge the tiles and may even lead to cracking. If you have a wooden staircase, reconsider laying down a cement backer unit (Cbu) or a mortar bed on top. This can help supply an unyielding base on which you can set the tiles.  

Before getting started, make sure that each step is flat and level. Any dip or groove will make your stair tile factory that much more difficult. Installers advise using a carpenter or laser level for tile floor work. Make sure that the level is precise by first testing it out on a outside that you know is flat, such as your floor or countertop.

Once you've assessed each step, you're ready to get started. professional installers advise that you begin at the top of the step and work your way down. This way you won't have to worry about standing on newly installed tiles while you're working on the next step. 

Tile floor accessories are primary when installing on stairs. Riser tiles and tread tiles are examples of floor accessories that are needed to help stabilize each step. When installing, it's foremost that you succeed the instructions very closely so the end succeed is a gain and carport staircase. Since tiles can be very slippery, you may even want to reconsider putting non-slip nosing on the end of each step to help minimize the opening of a fall. 

Here are a few tips to succeed when installing tile on stairs:

For added stability, make sure that the riser tile extends beyond the back edge of the tread tile. Tiles should never increase over the edge of the step. Start out by installing whole tiles before using the tile pieces. If you're using metal or rubber stair nosing, do no let the tile overlap the riser. all the time allow the tile to set agreeing to the manufacturer's instructions.

How to Lay Tile on Stairs

How To Grout Tile - 7 Sure-Fire Tips For Success

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Do you know how to grout tile? There are a few tricks of the trade you need to know before you tackle your first tile project. Result these 7 sure-fire tips for success when grouting tile.

#1. Use wall tile grout where the gap in the middle of tiles is 1/8th inch or less. For larger gaps, use sanded floor tile grout. If you use the wall tile grout on larger gaps, it can shrink and crack when it cures.

Tile

#2. Before mixing the grout, check it is a fine powder without any lumps. If you find lumps, don't use the grout. It means there has been some water or water vapor penetration that reacts with the grout and it has gone bad.

How To Grout Tile - 7 Sure-Fire Tips For Success

#3. Don't use liquid acrylic modifiers. In theory, these make your grout more durable. But they are more problem than they are worth.

#4. The singular most leading thing with grout is to mix it with the right whole of water. Too much water will Result in a crumbly, unstable grout when it has cured. Too tiny water and the grout won't fill the gaps in the middle of the tile properly. Result the manufacturer's instructions.

#5. Once you have your grout mixed properly, never be tempted to add added water if it is beginning to get hard in the bucket. This can ruin your ended grout. It's much good to mix up a fresh batch of grout.

#6. When you are wiping down the grouted joints with a sponge, make sure all excess water has been squeezed out of the sponge. If the sycophant is too wet, it can ruin your grout.

#7. When studying how to grout tile, it's worth setting some spare tile on some plywood so that you can practice the process of grouting before applying grout to your new floor or wall tiles.

How To Grout Tile - 7 Sure-Fire Tips For Success

San Simeon at the Foothills Apartments in Phoenix, AZ - ForRent.com

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Situated on San Simeon Lake with stunning views of majestic South Mountain, San Simeon At the Foothills welcomes you to a life of ease and tranquility. San Simeon offers one-, two-, and three bedroom condominium homes with six spacious floor plans. Choose from a selection of granite counter tops, wood and tile flooring, fine cabinetry, and stainless steel appliances to create your ideal surroundings. Spacious yet affordable, these one-, two-, and three bedroom units optimize luxury, comfort, and style. Experience hassle-free living with exclusive access to a community clubhouse, media room, business center, two lavish pools, a relaxing spa, state-of-the-art fitness center, sand volleyball court, and a private dog run. Shopping, dining, nightlife, and Sky Harbor International Airport are all just minutes away, providing the convenience and excitement of city life in a serene lakefront location! San Simeon is located directly off Desert Foothills Parkway in the acclaimed Del Webb developed The Foothills master-planned community. South Mountain Park, the largest city-owned park in the nation, borders Ahwatukee to the north, offering miles of recreational activities including trail hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, landscaped jogging paths and more. Three golf courses, multi-sports fields, and other amenities provided by The Foothills master-planned community will keep you active and enjoying the outdoors, year round. Has your home been Foreclosed on? Unable to lease ...
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permissible Swimming Pool climatic characteristic

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What is an ideal swimming pool temperature? This is a difficult examine to acknowledge because it varies based on personel swimmers preferences. Based on recommended heater temperatures and settings from virtually all manufactures, the ideal range for both indoor and outdoor pools is everywhere from 75 degrees to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. This shape should not be thought of as final as temperature and relax does differ from person to person and environment to environment, but it a good goal to reach.

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If you have a backyard swimming pool without a heater, finding for an ideal temperature is a difficult task. The temperature will slowly growth as the season changes and as the pool heats up, but the initial temperature in the early parts of the swimming season will be quite cold - normally well less than 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Even though there is no allowable pool temperature, water temperature less than 65 degrees Fahrenheit are unpleasant even for the most adventurous swimmers. On the other side, if you do have an outdoor pool with a heater, set it at something that is comfortable to your swimmers and your action level. For instance, cooler water is more ideal for exercising where warmer water is best for a lounge / beach atmosphere. But, keep in mind that turning up your heater too much can lead to unexpected drama.

When you growth the temperature of your water, it can have an ensue on pool maintenance. With higher temperature comes more water evaporation. This means you will need to be more diligent about filling up your pool to keep the water in your skimmers. Higher water temperatures also mean a faster buildup of dissolved solids. This is basically the "bad stuff" that the chlorine attacks in water. Higher pool water temperatures will also burn off your chlorine and pool sanitizing agents much more quickly. Algae also love the hot water so they will grow faster and force more serious and diligent maintenance such as vacuuming, squeeging, and cleanup.

Even if you don't have a heater to claim your temperature, the same concerns of a warmer pool will ultimately plague your pool in peak summer heat environments. Keep an eye out for seasonal changes and how they will influence your water chemistry. The most leading chemical water reading in during hot and cold times will be your total alkalinity. When the weather is cooler, your total alkalinity should be increased. In warmer weather, your total alkalinity should be decreased with a muriatic acid to keep the saturation index fairly constant.

There is no ideal swimming pool water temperature but you should adjust your temperature based on your personel preference. Also, keep in mind the added responsibilities that come with maintaining a warmer pool. Watch out for seasonal changes and note how they influence your water chemistry. Both cold and warm temperatures have an ensue on pool chemistry and maintenance routines.

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AZ Kenn John Kevin.mov

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Monday, June 25, 2012

dissimilar Ways to acquire Rainwater

--Az Tile of dissimilar Ways to acquire Rainwater--

dissimilar Ways to acquire Rainwater

We are all aware of how foremost the water is. However, we often take it for granted because of its abundance. But water is not always available in many parts of the world. This can happen to our area too if we continue to neglect conserving it. One way of conserving water is by collecting rainwater.

dissimilar Ways to acquire Rainwater

Collecting rainwater is advantageous for our homes because we can use the water collected to water our plants. We can also use it in cleaning our home and our car. Just think of the gallons we will be recovery just by doing so. In addition to that, it is also beneficial to our environment. By collecting rainwater, we help reduce the incident of soil erosion.

There separate methods used to gather rainwater. Some methods have been used for a long time in separate parts of the world. The most base would be the variety from the roof and directly stored into a prepared storage. There are traditional ways that are still in use today. In fact, these methods have come to be the foundation of some of the most modern methods today. There are also devices developed, called harvesters.

Homes today are also into collecting rainwater straight through their roof gutters. The gutter is used to direct the water to a definite direction. A gutter connector is added and directed to the holder prepared below the roof. The water collected can be used to wash separate areas in the house. It can be used in maintaining the organery as well.

You can also generate your own law for harvesting rainwater. Just remember the separate components you need. First, you will need a catchment. This will catch the rain. You need to have a conveyance so that the water will go where you want it to go. In addition to that, a roof washing is also necessary. This is to filter contaminants. get ready a holder for the water collected as well. If you are going to use it for drinking, see to it that you purify it first to avoid problems. There are separate purifiers available in the market today. Finally, you will need a seeder for dispensing the water.

Other methods are used by separate communities. Many are using the groundwater catchment system. This type of law can capture rainwater from separate sources together with runoffs from rivers as well as streams. The water collected will be directed to a storage prepared in a low area. But before that, it shall go straight through a filtering process.

Another method of collecting rainwater is the subsurface dike. This law is ordinarily built on aquifers to improve the level of water in that area.

Harvesting rainwater offers many benefits not only to homeowners but also to the environment. The homeowners will be able to save gallons of water if they use rainwater in cleaning their car and washing separate areas of the house. This can significantly help the environment as well, as it can minimize the incidents of erosion. This will also help reduce the use of private water.

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9 Wet rug Cleaning Myths

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Water has damaged your carpets. Maybe you had a toilet leak, maybe your water heater burst, maybe your kid left the faucet running in the sink for hours.

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What should you do to dry your wet carpet to minimize damage to your carpet and pad?

First of all, there is some normal information about carpets you should know that applies to all the myths .

General information about Water and Carpets

Residential carpet normally has a pad underneath it. The pad can be in any place from 1/4 inch to roughly an inch thick. The pad provides cushioning and gives your carpet that comfortable, soft feel when you walk on it.

Commercial carpet in offices and stores ordinarily doesn't have pad underneath it.

Carpet pad absorbs water like a sponge: The problem with pad under a carpet is that it is a parasite and can hold many times it's own weight in water.

Pad is designed to upholstery your feet, so it is spongy by nature and will soak up water like the cleaning parasite in your kitchen sink.

Carpet doesn't stop or hold much water:

Although your carpet may feel very solid under your feet, it offers very minuscule resistance to water passing straight through it.

Carpet is absolutely like a sieve to water. A typical carpet will not hold more than a few ounces of water per quadrate foot of carpet before it is saturated. After these preliminary few ounces of water have entered the carpet, any additional water filters right straight through the carpet and into the pad.

Water likes to travel:Water doesn't stay put, it is always on the move. The rule to remember is "Wet goes to Dry". Water will automatically move towards a dry construction material.

Water at the town of a room will flow straight through the carpet and across the pad to the walls. It will migrate to the edges of the room in a matter of minutes or hours depending on how much water was spilled.

When you touch the carpet at the edge of the room, it may not even feel damp, but the pad could be saturated. This can be seen using an infrared camera. An infrared (or Thermal Imaging) camera is useful in finding the real area that the water has damaged, even if you can't see or feel it.

In normal I would say that the actual wet area in any flood (found with professional water damage meters) is about twice the size of what the home owner reports.

An infrared camera will show how water travels under the carpet straight through the pad. Even in a 'small' flood, water can migrate straight through walls and end up 2 rooms away within 12 hours.

Bearing the information above in mind, here are some coarse myths about wet carpets and how to dry wet carpets

Myth #1. The carpet will dry by itself

This is absolutely true, just like it is true that you could win the lottery with one ticket.

Yes, the carpet will finally dry by itself. However, will it smell bad or have mold on it by the time it is dry? What other damage will occur while the carpet dries by itself?

Unless you live in someplace like Arizona or the desert where you have high climatic characteristic and low humidity, there is Very minuscule chance that the carpet and pad will dry before mold starts growing or bacteria start creating that wet carpet, damp smell. Typically you have about 72 hours to dry wet construction materials before they start growing mold.

Even if the carpet itself dries, does that mean the pad is dry? There is very minuscule chance that the pad is dry. The pad holds more moisture than carpet and is prevented from absolutely releasing the moisture due to the carpet above it and the sub-floor below it. So even if your carpet is dry, the pad is probably not dry.

Which brings us to someone else point. What about the wet sub-floor? Remember that carpet is like a sieve, and the carpet will pass water down to the pad very quickly. A saturated pad can then release water into the sub-floor.

Drying Sub-floors

Sub-floors are normally either wood or concrete.

Concrete sub floors are sponges too, except they are very slow sponges. They discharge water surprisingly quickly, but release it very slowly. So even if the carpet and pad are dried quickly, the concrete sub-floor could still release moisture for weeks.

Wood sub-floors hold water too. If they're made of chip-board/particle board/press-board (small chips of wood held together with glue) and they are wet for more than a few hours they discharge water, expand, and lose their structural integrity.

When wet particle board dries it has roughly no compel and you will find yourself stepping straight through your floor if you're not careful.

Plywood or Osb (Oriented beach Board) are much more hardy choices for a sub-floor than particle board. If they get wet, you can dry them, as long as they haven't been sitting wet for long adequate to warp. This falls loosely under the 72 hour rule. someone else concern is dry rot which is a bacterial deterioration that takes 21 days to manifest at lower moisture levels.

Determining either the sub-floor is wet or not can only reliably be done with a penetrating moisture meter. Dissimilar construction materials have Dissimilar thorough levels of moisture, so you use the meter to tell you if the material is acceptably dry or not.

Depending on the region you live in, plywood is dry at around 20% Equivalent Moisture article (Emc). In as minuscule as 4 days, mold can start growing on wet plywood if not dried correctly.

So, we know that the carpet and pad are unlikely to dry quickly adequate by themselves. But even if they did, is that all you have to concern yourself with when your carpets are wet? No, it's not.

Like I said, Wet goes to Dry. What this means is the water keeps spreading outwards from the source.

On one flooded carpet job we did, the carpet first got wet about 12 hours before we arrived. While that time the home owner used her wet vac to suck up as much water as potential from the wet carpet - about 100 gallons.

She just wanted us to dry her carpets. However, using the infrared camera and moisture meters, we found that her walls were wet, in some places to roughly 12" above the carpet.

Wet drywall, is that a problem?

The problem with wet drywall is the usual 72 hour problem.

In as minuscule as 72 hours mold can start growing on that wet dry wall. Mold especially likes dark, warm places with no airflow. That describes the wall cavity - the exquisite place for mold to grow.

So that's the problem - wet carpet creates wet drywall which can originate mold. Below is a picture of a wall after water had been standing for a long time.

To summarize. Yes, the carpet will finally dry by itself. But you'll more than likely have mold and smells by the time it is dry, and then you'll be ripping walls and carpet out to fix the problem

Myth #2. You have to take off the wet pad underneath your carpet

There is a myth that you can't take off water from a wet pad, even with market dismissal equipment. People who say this are talking about the thorough carpet cleaning 'wand' shown on the right. It is what is ordinarily used to clean carpets. It sprays hot water onto the carpet and then sucks it back up again.

The wand is designed to pull water out of the carpet fibers, not the pad and it does a good job at that. So if you have water damage on market carpet without a pad, the wand is a good tool to use.

However, on residential carpet with a pad, it extracts roughly none of the water from the pad.

So how do you get water out of the pad so you don't have to take off and discard the pad?

There are a number of new market dismissal tools that will take off water from the pad. Our beloved is the FlashXtractor. It is a overwhelming piece of equipment, probably my beloved tool. (We have no affiliation with the makers of this tool, and receive no recompense for mentioning it)

The FlashXtractor will pull buckets of water out a carpet that has been wand extracted to death!

Before tools like the FlashXtractor came out, there was a technique called "floating the carpet" which was used to dry carpet and pad due to the poor job the wand did of extracting water from the pad.

To float a carpet, you pull up a corner of the carpet and stick an air mover or carpet fan under the carpet to blow air under the carpet and onto the pad. While this recipe still works it is slower, less effective, and often stretches the carpet so that it doesn't fit properly when restretched.

Floating the carpet is an old school technique that is unnecessary if you have the right tools, ie a deep dismissal tool such as the FlashXtractor.

To complicate matters, bear this in mind. While you can dry wet pad, it doesn't always mean you should.

If you have contaminated water in the pad you can dry it, but you will be leaving at least some contamination in the pad and over time, it will start to stink and rot. In contaminated water situations you will have to take off the pad because you can't effectively decontaminate it while it is underneath the carpet. In the water recovery industry, contaminated water is called category 2 (gray water) or category 3 (black water).

Myth #3. You can't dry a wet pad under a carpet

The truth to this myth is the same as for the query above. Basically, you can dry a wet pad, even without floating that carpet, but that doesn't mean you always should. See the riposte above for details.

Myth #4. You have to lift the carpet and 'float' it using blowers

The riposte to this query is in the riposte to query 2 above. To summarize, you don't have to float carpet if you have a deep dismissal tool and know how to use it.

Myth #5. You have to take off and discard wet carpet.

Sometimes.

If you have a black water situation (Category 3 water - contaminated water such as sewage, toilet leak or rising ground water), agreeing to the business thorough Iicrc S500, you have to discard the carpet. I believe this is because there is no Epa registered disinfectant for carpet.

However, if you have category 2 water (gray water such as washing machine waste water, shower runoff,etc) you have to discard the pad, but you can clean the carpet and keep it.

Category 1 water (clean water - toilet contribute line, fridge ice maker, etc), and it hasn't been sitting for more than 48 hours, then you can passage the water and keep the carpet and pad.

The other infer water damage recovery technicians sometimes believe they should discard wet carpet is because the backing of the carpet will de-laminate when it is dried. The backing is the lattice webbing on the back of the carpet that holds the carpet fibers together. It is glued on. If it gets wet and stays wet for a long time it can detach from the carpet fibers and start to disintegrate.

How long is a long time? It's hard to predict - depends on the carpet, the temperature, how wet it was, etc. normally by the time the carpet de-laminates you've got a black water situation anyway, so the carpet has to go.

Myth #6. professional carpet Cleaning will dry your carpet and pad

No. Not unless they use a deep dismissal tool that is designed specifically to take off water from the pad. A quarterly carpet cleaning wand will not take off principal water from the carpet pad.

Myth #7. To take off the wet carpet smell, you should have it expertly cleaned.

Yes, with a 'mostly' attached to it. The carpet cleaning machines and methods available to most home owners aren't very effective. Compared to market carpet cleaning equipment, the carpet cleaning machines you rent from the local supermarket are like a moped is to a Harley. They're the same thing, but not really.

Getting whatever other than a light smell out of a carpet requires the high pressure and suction of a market machine. It also requires the expertise of a trained and experienced carpet cleaner. There are many causes and solutions to Dissimilar smells in a carpet and knowing what to do and when to it requires training and experience.

If baking soda and vacuuming don't work, your best bet is to call an trained and experienced carpet cleaner, preferably one that is also an Iicrc certified Odor operate Technician.

Myth #8. If you dry a flooded carpet, you will not get a moldy wet carpet smell

Depends. If a carpet is dried quickly and properly there will be no smell. In fact, if anything, there will be less smell because the carpet has effectively been cleaned.

If the carpet and pad are not dried quickly and properly you will probably have a problem with lingering musky smells and mold.

See myth #2 for more details.

Myth #9. You have to use a truck mount carpet extractor to dry or clean a carpet properly

False. This is an ongoing debate that I don't think will ever be resolved completely. Portable carpet cleaning machines have the advantage of short hose runs while truck mounts have the advantage of high power.

What it comes down to is absolutely the technician holding the wand. A good technician on a bad machine will get a best succeed than a bad technician on a good machine.

Summary

If you've had more than a few gallons of water spilled on your carpet, you're best off calling a professional water damage business to properly dry your home if you can afford it, or if you have insurance. As you leaned above, the problem is that if the carpets and walls aren't dried quickly you could face a mold situation which is much more high-priced to fix than drying the carpets.

I hope you will get new knowledge about Arizona Tile. Where you can offer use in your everyday life. And above all, your reaction is Arizona Tile.Read more.. 9 Wet rug Cleaning Myths. View Related articles related to Arizona Tile. I Roll below. I even have counseled my friends to help share the Facebook Twitter Like Tweet. Can you share 9 Wet rug Cleaning Myths.

In Less Than One Hour - Eliminate Shower Leaks by Installing a Solid surface Shower Pan

#1. In Less Than One Hour - Eliminate Shower Leaks by Installing a Solid surface Shower Pan

In Less Than One Hour - Eliminate Shower Leaks by Installing a Solid surface Shower Pan

Installing A Composite Shower Pan Is Fast And Easy. Before discussing the simple steps to setup a composite shower pan, I felt that some explication and definitions are indispensable because not all shower pans are alike.

In Less Than One Hour - Eliminate Shower Leaks by Installing a Solid surface Shower Pan

What Is In A Name? A roof is a roof, although there are many distinct roofing systems and roofing materials. Not true with "shower pans." They are often interchangeably called a shower pan, shower pan liner, shower pan membrane liner, waterproof barrier, shower base, shower tray, or shower receptor. Yet, each has a distinct meaning depending on context and each are available in a range of materials.

Bob Vila's web site defines a Shower Pan as "The base, containing a water drain, of the shower enclosure." And a Shower Receptor as "A one-piece base (floor) unit used as a shower, for example, to catch water and direct it to a center drain."

For the sake of clarity, I offer the following definitions.

Shower Pan & Shower Base - A finished area that is capable of retaining and directing water to the drain plus it doesn't want tiling once installed. The shower pan or base has a drain hole, sloped floor to properly direct water to the drain hole, sidewalls, and a threshold (entrance to the shower that forms a curb to keep water from running out onto the bathroom floor). A shower pan is synonymous with a shower base.

Shower Pan Liner, Membrane Liner, & Waterproof fence - A barrier, regularly a plastic sheet or membrane, that is intended to trap water that penetrates the shower floor tile, grout, and mortar under the tile and force the water to flow to the drain. As long as it doesn't leak, it prevents water from reaching the sub-floor and surrounding wall enclosure. The liner is a component within a constructed shower pan. A shower pan liner is synonymous with a shower pan membrane liner and a waterproof barrier.

Shower Tray & Shower Receptor - A shower tray is synonymous with a shower receptor. Both are used in place of a liner. They serve the same function as the liner, but are pre-formed to eliminate some of the facility steps indispensable when using a liner.

Shower pan liners, shower trays, and shower receptors are all used in conjunction with the construction of a shower pan that has a tiled floor as well as a tiled wall enclosure.

Commercially available shower pans are complete, ready-to-install units. They eliminate the need to create a mud sloped floor, a shower liner or tray, and tiling of the shower floor.

Composite Shower Pans. As composite shower pans are made from a number of distinct materials and constructed differently. I wanted to touch on each of the most base types. Composite shower pans fall into some material groups; cultured marble, fiberglass, acrylic, and solid surface. commonly all are made by fabrication of flat sheets, thermal-formed from a singular piece of material, or molded or cast to form a one piece unit. The one-piece construction eliminates seams, which in turn eliminates possible leaks. Each has their pluses and minuses. Because attractiveness is in the eye of the beholder, I will not comment on appearance. All composite shower pans setup on a flat, level floor and do not want the creation of a sloped mud base. Also, the cast or molded pans commonly do not want the use of a plastic membrane.

Cultured marble and dressier versions, like cultured onyx and granite, tend to be the least costly. Cultured marble is made by spraying a 'gel-coat' onto a mold. This coating is about 1/64" or less in thickness. The gel-coat is covered with pigmentation and then backed with calcium carbonate. The calcium carbonate gives the finished part its strength. Also, in the casting process it is infused with air pockets to lower its density and weight.

The cultured marble floor is cast separately from the sidewalls. Thus, the incorporation of a shower pan liner is indispensable to insure a watertight, leak free installation. Although widely used, the down side of cultured marble is that other than the gel-coat layer, the calcium carbonate is very porous. Any crack or scratch straight through the gel-coat will allow water penetration. Other gel-coat characteristics include; yellowing, even without Uv exposure; clouding from hot tap water; staining; crazing (fine hairline cracks); and it is not reparable when cracked or chipped.

Fiberglass is widely used as well. Fiberglass is strong, light weight and inexpensive. Many fiberglass manufacturers make one-piece shower pans and enclosures and one-piece composition tubs and showers with the wall enclosures. Similar to cultured marble, fiberglass is made with a gel-coat, then backed with pigment and chopped strands of fiberglass in a resin mixture. commonly the finished product is about 1/8" to 1/4" in thickness. The underside of the shower pan floor has webbing added to supply retain to the floor. As the floor is not solid, the unsupported space between the webbing can flex. This flexing is especially noticeable with heavy loading or where one is standing between to the webbing. Over time, the flexing can cause material fatigue and cracking. Once a crack develops, the pan has failed.

Acrylic sheets are used to vacuum form shower pans, bathtubs, spas and many other items. The vacuum forming process begins with a 1/4" sheet of pigmented acrylic that is heated to a temperature that makes the acrylic ductile. The sheet is located on a mold and stretched over the form to create the finished shape. The heating and stretching of the sheet causes a discount in wall thickness. The discount is directly proportional to the number of stretching that occurs. With shower pans there is far less material discount than with creating a tub or spa. The heating, stretching, and cooling of the material could also introduce stresses to the finished pan.

Like fiberglass pans, acrylic pans need retain elements under the pan floor. A commonly used retain element is polyurethane foam. The foam fills the void and eliminated the flexing of the pan floor. Acrylic sheet material is susceptible to crazing, minute surface cracking, and cracking when cleaned with many base cleaning chemicals. Should crazing occur, over time these cracks can lead to a pan failure.

Acrylic sheets have very distinct bodily and chemical properties than acrylic solid surface materials. In increasing to the acrylic resin used in solid surface, the solid surface material receives added bodily and chemical characteristics from the increasing of alumina-tri-hydrate, or Ath. The Ath causes cleaners that adversely sway acrylic to have no sway on solid surface.

Solid surface shower pans are the top-of-the-line in bodily and chemical characteristics as well as performance, reparability and a myriad of other features and benefits. The primary features of solid surface are it is non-porous, will not retain the increase of mold, mildew, or bacteria, is available in a large range of looks (some like natural granite) and colors, and is 100% repairable should chipping, scratching, or even cracking occur. health departments throughout the country have popular ,favorite solid surface materials for use in hospitals and food preparing areas for its resistance to bacterial growth, ease of cleaning and maintenance, and resistance to staining and contamination.

Some solid surface shower pan manufacturers originate their pans from sheet goods in a similar fashion as the acrylic shower pans. That is, they thermal form the pan floors by heating and stretching the material and then bond sidewalls and a threshold to the floor.

The Royal Stone brand of solid surface shower pans are the pans that I originate and will use to clarify the simplicity and ease of facility that can be had when installing a composite shower pan. Unlike fabricated solid surface shower pans, the Royal Stone shower pans are a cast one-piece solid surface product. By casting the pan as a one-piece unit, there are no stresses introduced in the pan, and there are many other features engineered and designed into this pan.

The most positive features are the large radius transition between the pan floor and its sidewalls. Secondly, the flange (also called a weep edge) is 1-1/2" tall. I have seen pans that do not merge an integral flange or have flanges 1/2" to 1" tall. The added height is designed to minimize, if not eliminate, any water being drawn up behind the wall surround panels that could cause water damage to the shower sub-structure.

Royal Stone's pans have a minimum wall thickness of 1/2" and the webbing elements have a wide foot with large stress relieving radius corners between the pan floor and the webbing. All shower pans are engineered to retain the weight of 3/4" thick (2 cm) granite slabs as well as all other commonly used wall materials like tile, fiberglass, acrylic, and solid surface panels. Finally, regardless of floor loading, the Royal Stone pan floor is so solid that it feels like one is standing on a rigid concrete floor. There is no perceptible flexing or oil-canning of the pan floor. Thus, there is no possibility of floor fatigue and cracking over time and the possible for pan failure is eliminated.

Installation Is Fast And Easy. As I have already stated, composite pans setup on a flat sub-floor. The following facility data may not apply to all types of composite shower pans. Specifically, I have direct knowledge of installing the cast one-piece solid surface shower pans that Royal Stone manufactures. Thus, the following directly applies to Royal Stone's thorough and custom shower pans. The same steps should also apply to other types of composite pans and other materials, however, corollary the manufacturers recommended facility instructions.

As a manufacturer, I do not setup pans. The photos included within this report were in case,granted by a local installer. They were supplemented by photos of a distinct pan, for clarity of the facility process. Thus the distinct pan color and shape. Further, most of the photos were from a unique plumbing situation. The home had all of the plumbing above ground. Thus, a particleboard platform was built above the plumbing for the shower. The following facility data applies to concrete, plywood, particleboard, wood, etc. Sub-floors at, above, or below grade.

Step #1 - Sub-Floor Preparation: Using the template in case,granted with the shower pan, place template on the floor and verify that the drain is in the precise location. If the drain is Not properly located, relocate the drain. Note: Relocating the drain is regularly far less costly than having a custom pan cast to accommodate your existing drain location.

The hole in the sub-floor needs to be larger than the drain pipe. About a 6" round or quadrilateral hole (about the size of a coffee can) is recommended. This larger opportunity allows room for the drain assembly that extends below the bottom of the pan. Most drain pipes are 2" Pvc. The Pvc pipe allows for some flexing within the 6" opportunity in the sub-floor. This flexing is desired and makes the pan facility easier. The Pvc pipe should enlarge above the finished sub-floor by a minimum of 1/2" to about 3" to 4".

The sub-floor can be wood, plywood, concrete or any other rigid or well supported surface. The sub-floor must be level and free from debris. To assure a level floor, check the floor with a long level as shown in Fig. 1. The longer the level, the more likely that the sub-floor will be level at its many dimensions. Check front to back at the left and right sides and at the center. Do the same from side to side. Finally, check the diagonals. Fig. 2 indicates the location of the 8 readings that should be taken.

Depending on the results of the level measurements, some added prep may be necessary. If the sub-floor is relatively flat, shims may be used to make the shower pan level. If the floor is uneven and out of level, pouring self leveling thin-set material may be necessary.

Once the sub-floor is level and the opportunity for the drain is correct, the setting of the shower pan is next.

Step #2 - Attach Drain Assembly To Pan: A thorough 2 part Brass Drain Assembly is recommended, as shown in Fig. 3. This type of assembly should be readily available at any plumbing supply store or home revising store. Royal Stone also sells this drain assembly. Disassemble the drain assembly. keeping the components in order makes reassembly faster and easier.

Place the pan on saw horses or any raised platform that allows entrance to the top and bottom of the pan. Spray the drain opportunity with rubbing alcohol, Fig. 4. With a clean rag, wipe the surface and interior edge of the pre-cut drain opening, to take off any dust or other contaminants from the pan's drain area. nearby the drain opportunity apply a kind bead of 100% silicone, Fig. 5.

Insert Brass Drain Body, Part #5 of the Brass Drain Assembly into the drain hole, Fig. 6, and press firmly into place, Fig. 7.

Step #3 - take off Excess Silicone: take off the excess silicone from the Drain Body, Part #5. Spray an alcohol mist over the drain area and the silicone, Fig. 8. With a Dap-Cap, scoop away the excess silicone, Fig. 9. This step may have to be repeated some times to fully take off the silicone. Last, spray a mist of alcohol and wipe remaining film away from the Drain Body, Part #5, with a soft cloth.

Step #4 - Mount Drain Locking Ring: Attach the Drain Strainer, Part #1, to assure that the Drain Body, Part #5, is centered within the drain hole, Fig. 10. From the bottom side of the shower pan, attach Parts #6, 7, & 8 to Part #5. Tighten the Locking Ring, Part #8 until snug. Do Not Over Tighten. Over tightening may crack the shower pan. take off the Drain Strainer, Part #1, and set aside.

If any added silicone has been squeezed out from between the shower pan drain and the Drain Body, Part #5, repeat Step #3 until all excess silicone has been removed.

Handling Tip: Using a set of glazer's grips allows for easier handling and sharp the pan into the proper location. If these are not available, brute force also works.

Step #5 - Dry Fit The Shower Pan: Lower the shower pan into place. Make sure that about 1/8" space exists between the shower pan flange and the studs. With the level, confirm that the pan is sitting flat on the floor as shown in Fig. 11 & 12. If added shimming is required, lift pan and place shimming material where required. Lower the pan into place and check for level. Repeat until the pan is level.

Caution: When leaning and handling the shower pan, deal with considered to prevent damage to the shower pan's flange.

A Level Pan Is indispensable For proper Drainage.

Step #6 - Silicone The bottom Of The Pan: Lift pan and lean against one of the studded walls. Apply 100% silicone caulking to the webbing, Fig. 13, on the underside of the shower pan . Also, apply a thick silicone ring nearby the drain opportunity in the sub-floor, Fig. 14. If shims were used, silicone all shims into position on sub floor as required.

Step #7 - Set Shower Pan: Lower shower pan into place. Check the pan for level. Press down as indispensable to re-level the shower pan. Apply a silicone bead along the front edge of the threshold to seal the threshold of the pan to the sub-floor.

Step #8 - associate Drain Pipe To Drain Assembly: Inject silicone fully nearby and between the drain pipe and the Brass Drain Body, Part #5, as shown in Fig. 15. Place the Rubber Gasket, Part #4 of the Drain Assembly, over the Pvc pipe and slide down until the top of the Rubber Gasket, Part #4, is fully seated and is below the top of the Drain Assemble, Fig. 16. Screw the Locking Ring, Part #3 of the Drain Assembly onto the Drain Body, Part #5. Tighten the Locking Ring, Part #3, with the Tightening Tool, Part #2 until the Rubber Gasket, Part #4, is seated and tightly in place.

Step #9 - Trimming The Pvc: The top of the Pvc drain pipe Must Not enlarge above the Brass Drain Body, Part #5. If it is at the top of the Brass Drain Body, Part #5, or extends above the top, trim the Pvc so that it is about 1/4" lower than the top of the Brass Drain Body, Part #5 but is taller than the top of the Rubber Gasket, Part #4. Cut the Pvc pipe with a Dremel and a cut-off wheel.

If the Tightening Tool, Part #2 has not already been removed, take off it and press the Drain Strainer, Part #1, into place. The facility is complete. Excluding any sub-floor preparation, the facility should take about one hour or less.

Step #10 - Curing: Let the shower pan set for 24 to 48 hours to allow the silicone to properly cure. Once cured, the wallboard and wall panels can be installed.

Caution: When attaching solid surface shower pans and wall panels, Only use 100% Silicone. Other adhesives or caulks may harden. The loss of the elastic bond between the solid surface and other materials can cause stresses in the solid surface. In turn, these stresses may cause fractures of the part and void the manufacturer's warranty.

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